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☆ Musician Rosalía brings the straitjacket back into view
▼ + stars: | 2024-05-03 | by ( Leah Dolan | ) edition.cnn.com time to read: +5 min

CNN —On Tuesday, 12-time Latin Grammy winner Rosalía stepped out in New York wearing an outfit that demanded a double-take. (Since the release of her third album, “Motomami,” Rosalía has been spotted in everything from biker-style shield sunglasses to Harley Davidson helmets). In 1994, the New York State’s Office of Mental Health proposed that straitjackets be discontinued after 18 patients died while restrained or in “unsupervised seclusion” between 1988 and 1992. But Rosalía isn’t the first to attempt to recontextualize the garment in the name of fashion. At the Gucci show in 2019, Ayesha Tan-Jones protested the label's straitjacket-inspired clothes by writing "Mental health is not fashion" on their hands.

Persons: Rosalía, Rick Owens, ” Rosalía, Harley Davidson, Gucci, Ayesha Tan, Jones, ”, Alessandro Michele’s, hasn’t, Julia Fox, we’ve, Ye’s, Bianca Censori, John Galliano —, Dior, —, Maison, Dolce, Rosalia Organizations: CNN, York State’s, Mental Health, Fashion, Gucci, Penske Media, Maison Margiela, Dolce, Gabbana Locations: New York, Spanish, York, Gotham, Tan, Florence, Italy, Shanghai, China

☆ Why Gucci’s New Creative Director Counts Princess Diana Among His Muses
▼ + stars: | 2024-02-18 | by ( Laura May Todd | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +2 min

Alessandro Michele’s departure as the creative director of Gucci hadn’t yet been announced. By his own account, he struggled to express himself; young, gay and interested in fashion, De Sarno felt out of place. He did stints at Prada and Dolce & Gabbana before, in 2009, making a more permanent home at Valentino in Rome. During his 14-year tenure there, he cycled upward through various departments until he became the label’s fashion director and the right-hand man of its creative director, Pierpaolo Piccioli. Recently, Gucci announced that the company will relocate the design office from Rome to Milan, where De Sarno feels most at home.

Persons: Sabato De Sarno, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Saint Laurent, “, Alessandro Michele’s, Gucci hadn’t, ” De Sarno, Maria, Raffaele, De Sarno, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Gucci, ”, “ It’s, Sabato, “ I’m, ‘, I’ll Organizations: Gucci, Istituto, Prada, Dolce, Gabbana Locations: Kering, Bottega, Cicciano, Italy, Naples, Milan, Valentino, Rome

☆ ‘Jawbreaker’ is turning 25, but the film’s costumes still represent iconic teen fashion
▼ + stars: | 2024-02-18 | by ( Scarlett Harris | ) edition.cnn.com time to read: +5 min

Horribly wrong, that is, in that it results in the death of the “Four’s” fourth member, Liz Purr, by the titular jawbreaker. From left: Julie Benz, Rose McGowan and Rebecca Gayheart, whose "Jawbreaker" characters turn the hallways of their high school into high-stakes runways. Columbia TriStar/Kobal/ShutterstockSartorial lines can also be drawn from “Jawbreaker” to “Gossip Girl,” “Euphoria” and “Do Revenge,” to name just a few. “The first time you see her as bad Vylette, she’s in full-on hot pink.”Why not purple like the flower she’s named after? “When Fern becomes Vylette she’s not a straight man’s fantasy… She’s essentially dressed like a drag queen!” Stein laughed.

Persons: CNN —, ”, Rebecca Gayheart’s, Julie, Queen Bee Courtney Shane, Rose McGowan, Marcie Fox, Julie Benz, Julie Freeman, Liz Purr, “, Vikki Barrett, Barrett, who’d, “ Romy, Courtney, Marcie, Rebecca Gayheart, Barrett thrifted, Jawbreaker ”, she’s, Darren Stein, ” Barrett, Courtney revamps, Fern Mayo, Judy Greer, “ She’s, Stein, —, Rose McGowan's Courtney, Judy Greer's Fern, Everett, Angelyne, Sandy Olsson, Fern, ” Stein, it’s Organizations: CNN, Queen, Michele’s, Columbia TriStar, TriStar Locations: Los Angeles

☆ Gucci’s new designer Sabato de Sarno makes himself known
▼ + stars: | 2023-09-22 | by ( Scarlett Conlon | ) edition.cnn.com time to read: +4 min

Yet, if Gucci’s new designer Sabato de Sarno was rattled before he took his bow for the Italian luxury house at Milan fashion week on Friday, he didn’t show it. Where Michele was an overt maximalist with retro references, de Sarno mined the Gucci archive and codes in a more stripped-back way. Oxblood red dominated the collection, inspired by The Savoy hotel in London where Guccio Gucci worked in the late 1800s. The bling was, in fact, a reference to the Marina jewelry collection that appeared in Gucci campaigns in the late 1960s. The rest of the embellished crystal designs were inspired by embroideries de Sarno found on 1960s clutch bags in the Gucci archive.

Persons: Milan, Sabato de Sarno, Alessandro Michele’s, De Sarno, Julia Roberts, Ryan Gosling, Jessica Chastain, Kendall Jenner, Julia Garner, Francois, Henri Pinault, Swan, Gucci Ancora ”, ‘, de Sarno, Prada, Gabbana, Valentino, Michele, Jackie, —, Guccio Gucci, Daniele Venturelli, “ Rosso Ancora, ”, Sabato De Sarno, Gucci, Kering, Daria Werbowy, Tom Ford Gucci, embroideries de Sarno Organizations: Milan CNN, Brera, Gucci, Dolce Locations: Milan, ‘, Savoy, London, Naples

De Sarno’s debut Friday, nine months after being hired in the wake of Michele’s surprise departure, was the most anticipated on the Milan Fashion Week calendar for next spring and summer womenswear. The fervor was enough to fill the front row with Hollywood A-listers including Julia Roberts and Ryan Gosling. In one recent interview, De Sarno professed admiration for Brutalist architecture, suggesting a love of the essential, and his collection was exactly that. A tiny leather bra top in embossed leather was paired with a matching midi skirt. The conversation started this week by De Sarno is to be continued.

Persons: — Sabato De Sarno, Gucci —, “ Gucci Ancora, “ Gucci, De Sarno, Alessandro Michele, Sarno’s, Julia Roberts, Ryan Gosling, Tom Ford, Guccio Gucci, De, tinsel, — Organizations: MILAN, Prada, Dolce, Gabbana, Milan, Hollywood, Gucci Locations: Valentino, London, Brera

☆ Sarah Burton Exits Alexander McQueen
▼ + stars: | 2023-09-11 | by ( Elizabeth Paton | More About Elizabeth Paton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +3 min

Ms. Burton, then its head of women’s wear, had been working with Mr. McQueen since 1996, when she started at his label as an intern after graduating from Central Saint Martins, the design school in London. Within a year of her succeeding Mr. McQueen as the brand’s creative director, Ms. Burton created the Princess of Wales’s ivory lace wedding gown, which became more famous than any dress designed by Mr. McQueen. Ms. Burton, who rose to lead a fashion house in an industry still largely dominated by men, helped Alexander McQueen evolve from a label beloved by fashion superfans into a modern luxury powerhouse. Kering, which bought a 51 percent stake in Alexander McQueen in 2001, is also reconfiguring its organization and its assets. The conglomerate has appointed Maureen Chiquet, a former chief executive at Chanel, to its board of directors and has named Francesca Bellettini, the chief executive of Saint Laurent, as the deputy chief executive of Kering’s portfolio of brands.

Persons: Burton, McQueen, Ms, . McQueen, Prince Harry’s, Meghan Markle, Queen Elizabeth II, Alexander McQueen, “, Sarah, ” François, Henri Pinault, Burton’s, Gabriela Hearst’s, Jeremy Scott’s, Alessandro Michele’s, Maureen Chiquet, Francesca Bellettini, Saint, Pinault Organizations: Central Saint Martins, Gucci, New York, Creative Artists Agency Locations: London, Chloé, Moschino, China, Saint Laurent, Hollywood, Valentino

☆ Lea Michele Ends ‘Dream’ Run in ‘Funny Girl’ After Reinvigorating Show
▼ + stars: | 2023-09-03 | by ( Julia Jacobs | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

“That was my dream come true,” Lea Michele gushed from the stage on Sunday after her final performance in “Funny Girl,” the Broadway revival that the actress breathed new life into when its future looked grim one year ago. Michele’s sudden addition to the production, which closed with its star’s exit, stretched its run to nearly 600 performances and allowed it to recoup its capitalization costs — far from a guarantee on Broadway. “I was embraced with open arms the minute I came in.”Just as Michele reversed the show’s fortunes, “Funny Girl” appeared to have reversed hers. Three years ago, Michele’s celebrity had been clouded by a wave of criticism over bullying behavior and a prima donna attitude. Since she stepped in as the show’s lead, Michele has reassumed the role of a celebrated Broadway star, announcing Tony nominees, performing on late-night shows and booking a solo concert this fall at Carnegie Hall.

Persons: ” Lea Michele gushed, basked, ”, ” Michele, Michele, Tony Organizations: Broadway, Carnegie Hall

☆ New Gucci designer has big sneakers to fill
▼ + stars: | 2023-01-30 | by ( ) www.reuters.com time to read: +2 min

MILAN, Jan 30 (Reuters Breakingviews) - Gucci’s new creative head Sabato De Sarno is stepping onto a wobbly catwalk. François-Henri Pinault’s conglomerate Kering (PRTP.PA) on Saturday picked the 39-year-old from smaller fashion house Valentino to lead its biggest brand and succeed star designer Alessandro Michele, who left abruptly in November. Michele’s daring designs, which he applied lavishly on anything from shirts to sneakers, helped Gucci sales shoot up to nearly 10 billion euros in 2019. But at around 10.5 billion euros in 2022, Gucci sales are expected to have risen only 10% since then. They do not reflect the views of Reuters News, which, under the Trust Principles, is committed to integrity, independence, and freedom from bias.

Now, when she opens the app, “all I see is Black women, Black people and Black businesses. She would have to specifically type in “Black girl” to find other Black women. This was created so that Black women could support Black women because nobody else seems to be.”James said she never intended to put another race down and she encouraged the trend with the purpose of showing love to Black women. “Black women are navigating the combined force of racism and sexism on a daily basis,” she added. The creator of the trend, Michele, said she applauds Black men for sometimes defending Black women on the app.

☆ Gucci’s Next Revamp Needs a More Classic Look
▼ + stars: | 2022-11-25 | by ( Carol Ryan | ) www.wsj.com time to read: 1 min

No new designer is lined up yet at Gucci after Alessandro Michele’s departure. Parting ways with Gucci’s designer was an inevitable decision for Kering, the luxury group that owns the brand. The Italian brand’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, is stepping down immediately, Kering said this week, and no one is lined up yet for his job. From his first runway show in early 2015, Mr. Michele more than doubled Gucci’s sales and tripled operating profit in what is considered one of the most successful luxury-brand makeovers in decades. However, the brand has looked wobbly since 2020 as his designs became less popular.

☆ Gucci designer’s exit boosts Kering’s M&A urgency
▼ + stars: | 2022-11-24 | by ( Lisa Jucca | ) www.reuters.com time to read: +3 min

MILAN, Nov 24 (Reuters Breakingviews) - The abrupt departure of star Gucci designer Alessandro Michele on Wednesday is putting French luxury boss François-Henri Pinault on the spot. The Italian brand, Kering’s (PRTP.PA) largest, has been a money-spinner for the 68 billion euro French conglomerate. Gucci revenue nearly trebled to 9.6 billion euros between 2014 and 2019. Reuters GraphicsFollow @LJucca on TwitterCONTEXT NEWSKering’s top brand Gucci said on Nov. 23 Creative Director Alessandro Michele had stepped down. Under Michele’s creative leadership, Gucci sales grew nearly three times from 2014 to 9.6 billion euros in 2019, one of the best performing brands in the luxury world.

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